Below you will find a description of a walking tour around Fleet Street in London.
Fleet Street is nestled between two historically significant districts in London—the City and Westminster—and was historically associated with the press.
Most of the major UK newspapers were at some stage printed in the area.
“…the whole of Fleet Street is following me!!”
Princess Diana
Who read the papers?
“- Don’t tell me about the press, I know exactly who reads the papers: The Daily Mirror is read by people who think they run the country. The Guardian is read by people who think they ought to run the country. The Times is read by the people who actually do run the country. The Daily Mail is read by the wives of the people who run the country. The Financial Times is read by the people who own the country. The Morning Star is read by people who think the country ought to be run by another country, and the Daily Telegraph is read by people who think it is.
– Prime Minister, what about people who read The Sun?
– Sun readers don’t care who runs the country as long as she’s got big ****!”
Yes, Minister, BBC comedy
The history of printing on Fleet Street began in 1500, when Wynkyn de Worde established the first printing press here.
Almost 500 years later, in 1986, rising London rents and advancements in technology prompted the exodus of this industry’s (not without a fight!) from the area.
Below, you will find a walking tour of 16 spots on and near Fleet Street that in my view are worth seeing.
It all started with the River Fleet, which shaped London’s infrastructure from at least Roman times! In the mid-19th century, it was covered and became part of London’s sewer system. Today, the river runs underground from the Hampstead Heath area and enters the Thames under Blackfriars Road Bridge. The eastern end of Fleet Street (now the site of Ludgate Circus) used to be the crossing over the River Fleet. In fact, the former name of Fleet Street was Fleet Bridge Street.
1. Punch Tavern
I recommend beginning this walk with a visit to The Punch Tavern, a historic pub named after the famous magazine that had its offices just around the corner.
Punch was a satirical magazine prominent in 19th- and early 20th-century Britain, celebrated for its sharp wit, satirical cartoons, and humorous commentary on contemporary issues.
The pub honors its connection to the magazine (it was a drinking hole for its employees) by displaying various cartoons that were once published in Punch, providing a charming glimpse into its satirical past.
2. Journalist’s Church That Inspired the Shape of the Wedding Cake
St Bride’s Church, located on the south side of Fleet Street, near Ludgate Circus, offers a mix of interesting stories.
Firstly, the tiered spire of St. Bride’s Church is said to have inspired the design of the modern wedding cake!
The story goes that in 1703, Thomas Rich, a baker’s apprentice from Ludgate Hill (a street located near Fleet Street with a perfect view of St. Bride’s tiered spire), fell in love with his employer’s daughter and asked her to marry him. He wanted to impress his future father-in-law by designing something special, so he created a cake mirroring the top of St Bride’s Church.
Secondly, the church is known for its historical association with the press.
Inside the church, you can find a corner dedicated to journalists who died reporting from the field, benches with names of people associated with the press (publishers, editors, caricaturists) and the gravestones of journalists.
Thirdly, in its crypt, you can find 1,800-year-old Roman pavement and the remains of seven former churches that stood on this spot in the past.
And last but not least, a metal ‘safe’ coffin used briefly in the first half of the 19th century as a preventive measure to stop resurrectionists (body snatchers) from stealing corpses from cemeteries for medical purposes.
One iconic structure deeply associated with journalism at Fleet Street is the former Reuters building, located at no 85.
Reuters is a global news organization renowned for its extensive network of journalists and correspondents, speed, commitment to unbiased reporting, and rigorous fact-checking. It was stablished in London in 1851.
4. St. George and the Dragon Statue
While walking through the City of London, you will encounter numerous depictions of dragons.
The City of London adopted the dragon symbol as an emblem of its guardianship. This tradition originates from the story of St. George, a Christian martyr and Roman soldier celebrated for his faith, courage, and the legendary feat of slaying a dragon in the late 3rd century.
Now, I would like to encourage you to see a slightly bigger one, well-hidden and located on Dorset Rise, a street just south of Fleet Street.
5. 700-year-old remains of Whitefriars crypt
One of the reasons Fleet Street was chosen as a home for the printing industry was the presence of nearby priories.
Monks and priests were among the minority who could read before 1500.
One of them was a Carmelite priory.
On Ashentree Court, located to the south of Fleet Street, hidden below ground level and behind a glass wall, you can find the remains of a 14th-century crypt from the religious house that existed there from the 13th to the 16th century.
The street leading to Ashentree Court from the east is named after this priory and is called Whitefriars Street.
6. Historic tiles on Magpie Alley
On Magpie Alley (a short alley located to the south of Fleet Street), you can find tiles describing the history of the printing in London.
These panels offer a fascinating glimpse into the past.
7. Newspaper Sundial
One of the heroes associated with this fight for freedom of the press was Richard Carlile.
For over 40 years, he fought for the freedom of expression of personal views. He was often imprisoned because of this. He died in 1843.
On the east elevation of the building at No. 62 Fleet Street, the former location of Carlile’s printing house, you can find a giant sundial displaying the names of several newspapers that no longer exist: The Republican, Pall Mall Gazette, The Morning Post, News Chronicle, and The Daily Herald.
8. Temple Church
By entering the gate* at No. 17 Fleet Street, you will experience a totally different world from the one on busy main street.
*The gate is not always open; click here to check the opening hours.
Behind this gate, you will find the Inner and Middle Temples – professional associations for barristers (the Inns of Court).
Within the Inner Temple, you will discover Temple Church, famous for its connection to the Knights Templar.
You can view the Temple Church from the outside for free, but to enter the church, you will need to purchase a ticket. More details can be found here.
You can also expect to see picturesque gardens and beautiful architecture as you walk through various parts of the Inns of Court.
9. Royal Court of Justice
The magnificent building of the Royal Courts of Justice will immediately capture your attention as you leave the Inns of Court area via Devereux Court.
Completed in 1882, this grand building features ornate facades, towering spires, and intricate stone carvings.
The Royal Courts of Justice was the location of the 2020 libel case between Johnny Depp and The Sun newspaper, which Johnny Depp lost.
Julian Assange‘s legal proceedings related to his extradition to the United States were also heard here.
10. Twinings
Let’s take a moment to dive into the world of tea!
Just a short stroll from Fleet Street, at 216 The Strand, you’ll find the charming Twinings shop, established in 1706.
Though its exterior may seem modest, inside you’ll discover a narrow but elegantly decorated space where you can learn about the art of tea blending while sampling some of Twinings’ signature blends.
The shop also offers a wonderful selection of tea-related gifts and memorabilia, perfect for souvenirs.
11. Old Bank of England (pub) and Sweeney Todd
Sweeney Todd, the infamous* (fictional) barber, ran his bloody business on Fleet Street!
*He equipped his barber shop with a chair that allowed him to drop his clients into a basement, where they were killed and later turned into one of the ingredients in the ‘delicious’ pies done by Mrs. Lovett.
Today, the approximate site of Todd’s barber shop is occupied by the Old Bank of England – a former bank that has been converted into a pub.
After visiting the corner dedicated to the Sweeney Todd story (they even have a barber chairs there!), you might not feel like having a pie, but you will certainly find them on the pub’s menu!
12. Urine deflectors
In the 19th century, London suffered from a lack of an efficient public toilet system. As a result, many people resorted to using the rivers or streets when they needed a loo.
Narrow alleyways with limited lighting were naturally very tempting for gents who had been drinking a lot of beer in the many nearby inns and pubs!
One way to discourage such behavior was the installation of anti-urine devices* on buildings.
*Urine deflectors (also called splashbacks) were designed with an angled surface to redirect the stream in the most unpleasant way, discouraging repeat visits.
Some of them can still be seen at Clifford’s Inn Passage (a small alleyway to the north of Fleet Street).
13. The statue of the ugliest Londoner
John Wilkes was a 18th-century radical journalist, politician, soldier, Lord Mayor of London…and the ugliest man in the UK’s capital!
Despite his distinctive look, thanks to his charisma, he was a womanizer!
He famously said that he could talk away his face in half an hour.
Apart from having a rather eventful personal life, he also made significant contributions to expanding press freedoms. For instance, he advocated for the right of printers to publish accounts of parliamentary debates.
You can find his confidently posed statue on Fetter Lane, a short walk from Fleet Street.
14. House of Dr. Samuel Johnson and Statue of His Cat
Dr. Samuel Johnson was an English writer known for authoring the most famous quote about London:
When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life, for there is in London all that life can afford.
He is also the author of A Dictionary of the English Language, published in 1755.
The next stop on this walk is the house, which he once occupied.
He was a celebrity of his era, and so was his cat, Hodge.
You can find Hodge’s statue nearby, sitting on a dictionary and looking towards his former owner’s house.
15. Paving plaques
When strolling along the northern side of Fleet Street, if you look carefully, you can spot paving plaques at the entrances to pedestrian courts, celebrating the press industry that once occupied the area.
Some depict famous newspaper front pages printed in the area, such as the one at Bolt Court that shows The Sun’s front page announcing Elvis Presley’s death in 1977.
16. Pub Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
The last stop on this walk is one of the most atmospheric historic pubs in London—Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (est. 1667).
Inside, you’ll discover various levels with cozy rooms, featuring fireplaces and small bars.
Spending time in the pub’s dimly lit rooms, you might feel transported to an era when news was discussed over countless pints of beer.
As you leave the pub and head towards Fleet Street, look to the left for a breathtaking view of one of London’s most iconic landmarks—St. Paul’s Cathedral.
